

Front
Conversion Instructions page-2
Next, remove the
18mm nut that holds the steering knuckle to the upper control arm ball joint.

While
supporting the hub assembly with one hand, thread the nut back on to the bolt
flush with the end of the bolt to protect the threads, and using a hammer, drive
the bolt forward, and out of the steering knuckle. Once it is free, remove the
nut, and slide the bolt out completely, allowing the steering knuckle assembly
to lean outward toward you. This will allow the upper control arm to hang free.

IMPORTANT
NOTE:
THE NEXT STEP
IS OPTIONAL. YOU MAY WANT TO DO THIS STEP ONLY IF
YOU FIND THERES NOT ENOUGH TRAVEL IN THE FRONT END.
YOU
MAY EXPERIENCE TROUBLE GETTING THE LINK NUT TIGHT AGAIN AFTER ITS TAKEN OUT, AS
IT MAY SPIN AROUND WHILE TRYING TO TIGHTEN DOWN THE LINK.
Now,
remove the nut that holds the sway bar link to the steering knuckle. This is a
15mm nut.

This
bolt does not have to come out all the way, as there is slight interference with
the brake line, but letting it slide back through the knuckle partially, helps
with removal of the old air spring, and installation of the new coil assembly.
Now the tough one for all you east-coasters. The
dreaded Lower Control Arm bolt. Hope you sprayed it well with penetrant.
Remove
the 21mm nut on the back-side of the lower control arm bolt that goes through
the lower forks of the shock assembly.
Thread
the nut back on flush with the end of the bolt to protect the threads, and using
a large hammer, carefully strike the nut to hammer out the bolt. It passes through
the lower control arm, which has a bushing that is lined with a steel sleeve.
This is where most people run into a problem, as harsh road conditions, salt,
snow and corrosion will basically lock the bolt into the sleeve. Just remember,
you are hitting a part that is connected to your lower control arm, so be very
careful.
NOTE:
The
first thing some of you will want to do, is to use a torch or "Blue-Tip Wrench"
to assist you in removing this bolt. This IS NOT a good
idea in this case because you will most likely melt the rubber bushing in the
lower control arm....which means a $150+ new lower control arm is going to be
on your shopping list!
Once you get this bolt
out, remove the support device, and allow the lower control arm to hang free.
Lower the car, and remove the final top nut to completely release the front shock
assembly from the car. That's it. The hard part is over. You now have this.

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